Facial Cleansing: When It Is Needed, What Types There Are, and Which One to Choose
Facial cleansing is one of the most common procedures performed in salons.
Is Facial Cleansing Necessary? Human skin is a self-renewing structure consisting of several layers, the uppermost of which is the epidermis.
New cells are born in the deep layers of the skin (dermis) and gradually move to its surface. In the upper layers of the epidermis, there are already aging cells that gradually die off and are replaced by new, younger cells.
Ideally, these processes should proceed continuously, ensuring that we always have beautiful, even skin, but in reality, things are not quite like that. Various factors influence the skin renewal processes:
- The general condition of the body;
- Hormonal fluctuations during puberty, pregnancy, menopause, and at different times of the cycle;
- Stress;
- Age (with age, cell renewal slows down).
Due to the disruption of the skin renewal process, damaged fibers responsible for the formation of wrinkles, deterioration of complexion, and skin texture accumulate on the surface of the epidermis.
A large accumulation of dead skin cells not only worsens its appearance but also reduces the effectiveness of skincare. Cosmetic products are absorbed worse, more of them are required, and they are not as effective as on well-prepared, cleansed skin.
The danger lies not only in worsening the appearance of the skin and complicating its care: the accumulation of damaged cells (for example, from sun damage) can become a sort of delayed-action mine, as these cells can transform into malignant tumors.
Therefore, the question of whether facial cleansing is necessary is rhetorical; cleansing is undoubtedly necessary, one just needs to choose the right type and determine how often it should be done, depending on the type of facial skin. And, of course, it is not advisable to try to perform it yourself.
What is Facial Cleansing?
Cleansing refers to procedures associated with controlled skin damage aimed at removing its upper layer. This not only removes dead and damaged cells but also triggers recovery mechanisms.
Any cleansing is a stress effect on the skin, and the level of stress depends on how deeply it was damaged.
The skin is a complex organ. When its upper layers are damaged, it begins to produce signaling molecules (inflammatory mediators, growth factors, etc.) that trigger the restoration of its structure. This is a complex process during which the skin structure is renewed, collagen growth is activated, and new blood vessels appear, actively supplying nutrients to the cells.
As a result, blood circulation improves, cells divide more actively, restoring the epidermis, the upper layer of the skin is renewed, and it looks fresher and younger.
Because controlled damage activates the process of renewal and the growth of new cells, the structure of the skin improves in the long run after cleansing, its framework is strengthened, it becomes denser, and the stimulation of its own hyaluronic acid synthesis increases its moisture level.
What to Expect from Facial Cleansing:
- Normalization of sebum secretion;
- Pore cleansing;
- Reduction of acne manifestations;
- Improvement of complexion, elimination of dullness;
- Smoothing of fine lines;
- Increased skin hydration;
- In the long run — skin firming and tightening.
However, there are certain risks; something may go wrong, for example, inflammation may start, hyperpigmentation, scars, and other unpleasant phenomena may appear, so it is very important to have facial cleansing procedures performed by an experienced specialist. The care during the recovery period is also of great importance, but this will be discussed later.
What Types of Facial Cleansing Exist
Any beauty salon or cosmetic office will offer you at least several types of facial cleansing. As a rule, each cosmetologist has their favorite techniques, in which they have extensive experience, and this should be taken into account when choosing facial cleansing.
Skin cells are connected to each other by intercellular bonds. To remove a layer of cells, the bonds between them need to be broken. This can be done mechanically, physically, or by dissolving them with chemicals. Depending on the chosen method, all types of cleansing can be divided into three main groups:
- Mechanical,
- Hardware,
- Chemical.
Which type of facial cleansing to choose depends on the skin type, so it is recommended to listen to the cosmetologist’s opinion.
Mechanical Cleansing
Mechanical cleansing is performed by mechanically acting on the skin. These include manual (manual) cleansing and brushing.
During manual cleansing, the cosmetologist works on the skin with their hands and various tools.
The procedure is carried out in several stages:
- Cleansing and steaming the skin.
- Cleansing the face with a special sieve (the skin is softened, and the upper layer of dead cells is removed).
- Removing sebaceous secretions from the pores using tools like Uno’s spoon and Vidal’s needle (this stage may cause painful sensations).
- Treating with antiseptic and applying a soothing mask (in some cases, physiotherapy procedures may be performed, such as darsonvalization or IR radiation treatment).
For brushing, brushes of varying degrees of stiffness are used to mechanically cleanse the skin’s surface.
Mechanical cleansing is the oldest method that allows for pore cleansing, removing the upper horny layer, stimulating collagen synthesis, and skin renewal.
The drawbacks of manual cleansing include the traumatic and painful nature of the procedure, as well as the possibility of bruising and hematomas. Mechanical cleansing is not recommended in the presence of fragile vessels, inflammatory processes, eczema, furunculosis. They are not performed in the late stages of pregnancy, during acute illnesses, in cases of asthma and hypertension, or after gold thread lifting.
Hardware Cleansing
This is a large group of cleansing types performed using special equipment. Hardware procedures include ultrasonic, galvanic, and vacuum treatments.
A special device with attachments is used by the cosmetologist to act on the skin. The skin is deeply and thoroughly cleansed, but the procedures themselves are less traumatic.
The procedure generally looks as follows:
- The skin is cleansed, and in some cases, a mask is applied.
- The cleansed skin is treated with an antiseptic solution.
- Cleansing is performed using the device and attachments.
- A mask is applied.
- The face is cleansed, and a soothing agent is applied.
Chemical Cleansing
Chemical types of cleansing include peels performed using various chemical agents capable of dissolving intercellular bonds.
These include alpha-hydroxy acids (fruit acids), beta-hydroxy acids (salicylic acid), trichloroacetic acid, phenol, retinol, and others.
Important!
The history of peels in cosmetology spans over half a century. They have proven effectiveness and are safe in the hands of professionals.
Depending on the concentration of acids, peels are classified into superficial, medium, and deep.
Superficial peels affect only the horny layer. This is the least traumatic type of cleansing, which allows for slight lightening of the tone, softening of fine lines, and elimination of minor skin texture irregularities. No rehabilitation period is required after the procedure: you can immediately apply makeup and lead a normal lifestyle.
Medium peels affect not only the horny layer but also part of the epidermis. As a result of the procedure, pigment spots, fine lines disappear, and the skin is significantly rejuvenated. The rehabilitation period after the procedure is about 7 days. During this time, swelling, peeling, and redness of the skin may be observed.
Deep peels are serious procedures performed in a clinical setting. The epidermis is affected to its full thickness, including the papillary layer of the dermis. Healing takes 2-3 weeks. Prolonged redness and soreness may be observed. After the rehabilitation period, a pronounced rejuvenating effect is noted: wrinkles are smoothed, the skin lightens, keratosis and texture irregularities disappear.
Possible complications of the procedure can include infection, pigmentation, and scar formation.
Contraindications to Chemical Peels:
- Certain chronic diseases (including asthma, diabetes, hypertension);
- Intolerance to the components of the preparation;
- Pregnancy;
- Hypertrichosis;
- Nevi;
- Inflammatory skin conditions;
- Recent resurfacing;
- Tendency to scar formation;
- Skin type IV–VI according to Fitzpatrick classification.
Atraumatic Facial Cleansing
Another type of cleansing that has become very popular today is called atraumatic cleansing.
This is a complex procedure that includes several types of cleansing. It acts gently on the skin, so there are no painful sensations during the procedure, and no rehabilitation period is required. Accordingly, there are fewer contraindications, for example, it can be performed with fragile vessels.
Atraumatic cleansing can be chemical or hardware.
Chemical atraumatic cleansing takes about two hours and is performed as follows:
- The skin is cleansed.
- A peel based on fruit acids and salicylic acid is applied.
- Warming agents with camphor and menthol are applied.
- The skin is treated with a peeling roll to remove sebaceous plugs and layers previously softened by acids.
- A disinfecting and soothing mask is applied.
Hardware atraumatic facial cleansing is performed with a laser; the skin is not injured during the process.
In addition, salons may offer various specialized types of cleansing that may be developed by specific cosmetologists. They are usually complex, based on a combination of different techniques and the use of specific products.
How Often Should Facial Cleansing Be Done
The answer to the question of how often facial cleansing is needed depends on the skin type and the type of cleansing.
The standard recommendation for manual or hardware cleansing is once a month for oily and combination skin and once every 2-3 months for dry and sensitive skin. A cosmetologist may suggest other options, such as an intensive course of weekly cleanings 4-6 times, followed by maintenance cleanings once a month.
The frequency of chemical cleanings depends on their intensity:
- Superficial peels are most often recommended for young skin with increased oiliness and post-acne. They are done 2-4 times a year.
- Medium peels are usually done no more than once a year.
- Deep peels are done only once.
In any case, the specialist determines how often facial cleansing is needed.
How to Care for Skin After Cleansing
During any type of cleansing, the skin is traumatized to some extent, and it takes time to recover.
The duration of the rehabilitation period after cleansing depends on its type. For example, after mechanical cleansing, the skin recovers in a few days, while after a deep peel, it takes weeks.
Until the skin returns to its normal state, it is necessary to follow certain rules:
- Do not wet the skin with water for 12 hours after the procedure;
- In the first 3-5 days, replace regular washing with antiseptic lotion wiping;
- Do not sunbathe or visit the sauna until the skin recovers;
- Do not pick at scabs or peeling skin;
- After chemical peels, protect the skin from UV rays by using a full sunblock.
For home care, the cosmetologist will recommend specific products containing moisturizing and soothing ingredients such as chamomile and oat extracts, allantoin, bisabolol, aloe vera, d-panthenol, and hyaluronic acid.
Regular facial cleansing is not only about improving the skin «here and now,» but also a long-term investment in its beauty and firmness. Proper home care helps shorten the rehabilitation period and quickly, without complications, restore the skin.